Context:dress/fashion/textiles is the official publication of The New Zealand Costume & Textile Section . We warmly invite submissions to Context, the journal of the association. We welcome innovative pieces as well as articles in the more familiar styles. Our intention is to continue publishing articles, research notes, reviews, and notices as well as peer-reviewed papers. Consistent with the stated aims of the association, we hope this will improve publishing opportunities for dress and textile researchers working in the New Zealand context.
We also want to increase reader participation in the journal, through letters to the editor, by giving more emphasis to reviews of any events past and current, and by including notices alerting us to future events that may be of interest to members. If there is something going on in your community or your wardrobe, please tell us about it. Also, we hope to feature a new column about a loved textile or dress objects. Send us a photograph with a few lines or paragraphs as a caption.
Please contact the Context Editor via this form for further information.
Index for Issue 22, Winter 2010/11
From the EditorsCelebrating ten years of the Costume and Textiles Association of New Zealand - Laura Jocic
The Curious Story of the Dogtown Quilt - Elaine Webster
A Futurist Nightmare: Disruptive textiles of the First World War - Eloise Taylor
Amazon Attire - Kirstie Ross
Interview: Vintage couture in Dunedin Fashion Week - Elaine Webster
Exhibition Review: Ballet Russes:The Art of Costume - Paolo Di Trocchio
Exhibition Review: ManStyle - Louis Le Vaillant
Exhibition Review: Threads of Feeling - Vivien Caughley
Book Review: The Dress Circle - Natalie Smith
Notices
Information for Contributors
Index of Past Issues
Issue 21, Summer 2010/11
Editors’ commentPresident’s comment
Conference report: Hanging by a Thread - Jane Malthus
From Dance to Display: Conservation of costumes from the Ballets Russes - Hannah Barrett, Chandra Obie and Jane Wild
John Buchanan (1819-1898): investigating his work as a calico pattern designer - Linda Tyler
Conference report: In the loop 2 Knitting: Origins and evolution - Dr Stella Lange
Nikki Gabriel: Knitwear & Textile Designer - Lucy Hammonds
A View of Textiles in Contemporary New Zealand Jewellery - Cath Dearsley
Exhibition Review: Valentino: Themes and Variations at GOMA - Paola Di Trocchio
Dress, Dance and Dannevirke: the clothing collection of Joan Irvine - Tania Robinson
Exhibition Review: Contemporary Traditions: Dunedin and Otaru Celebrate 30 Years - Jane Malthus
Book Review: Jane Austen’s Sewing Box - craft projects & stories from Jane Austen’s novels - Dinah Vincent
Book Review: Three Fashion Books - Natalie Smith
Notices
Guidelines for contributors
Issue 20, May 2010
Editor’s comment, p. 1
Articles
Jane Malthus, A tale of two Dunedin society girls, p. 2
Elaine Webster, Synthesis:the art and fashion of Zandra Rhodes, p. 9
Karin Warnaar, Frock Lit 101, p.13
Karen Richards, Unpicking the past: From exhibition to developing a learning and assessment unit at senior secondary school level, p.16
Paul Moros, Crafternoon tea with Grannyg: a fangirl perspective, p. 19
Genny Stevens, Fibre Night in Dunedin, p.22
Reviews
Stella Lange, Second annual Joy of Yarn Garden Party weekend, p.24
Chanel Clarke, Nga Kakahu - Jo Torr, p.25
Moira White, SITE09: Textiles at the Otago Polytechnic School of Art, p. 28
Natalie Smith, Two Fashion Exhibitions in Melbourne, p. 31
Natalie Smith, iD Fashion Show, p. 33
Johanna Zellmer, How to recognise a piece of jewellery, p.35
Reply from Margo Barton, p.37
Bridie Lonie, Re-fibra: Contemporary textile art: A dialogue between New Zealand and Sweden, p. 39
Events, p.22
Issue 19, November 2009
Editor’s comment, p. 1
Notices, p2
Reviews
Moira White, Textiles in West Africa: Rhythm+Spirit, p. 4
Doris du Pont, Gone With the Wind, p.7
Laura Jocic, Together Alone: Australian and New Zealand Fashion, p.11
Articles
Laura Jocic, Robes of Powers: The role of dress in asserting status in nineteenth century Russian Turkestan, p.19
Lyndsay Fenwick, Wheels for the Empire and War Effort, p.23
Issue 18, May 2009
From the Editor, p. 1 1
Events
Persuasion: Fashion in the age of Jane Austen, supplied by National Gallery of Victoria p.2
Dressed to rule: Imperial robes in China, supplied by National Gallery of Victoria, p.3
Peer reviewed article
Peter Stupples, The vestimentary and identity: British pop art p, 5
Reviews
Margery Blackman, Chinese costume and textiles, p. 10
Stephanie Glen, The dragons stamp of approval, p. 12
Vivien Caughley, No rules: Rediscovering embroidery, p.14
Phillip Clarke, In reply, p. 16
Vivien Caughley, POST stitch – To the letter, p.17
Natalie Smith, Collections 08: Otago Polytechnic Fashion School Show, p. 20
Moira White, 2008 at the Polytechnic Art School: The textile graduands, p.21
Book review
Natalie SmithAll that glitters: Denise L’Estrange-Corbet, p.23
Report
Jane Malthus, The Wanaka Embroidery School, 2009, p.25
Obituary
Robin Dalrymple McLaughlin, p.26
Issue 17 July-November 2008
Editor’s Comment, p. 3.
Events, p. 4
Article
Necessary Frills Elaine Webster, p. 6.
Article
Textile Processes in the Marginal Spaces Between Fashion and Art, Odette Callanan, p. 17.
Research Note
Barker-Eames Collection, Moira White and Jane Malthus, p.21.
Reviews
Recto/Verso: Reading Jum Nakao’s exquisite paper dresses, Lynda Cullen, p.22.
Lindsay Kennett Hat Couture Collection, Bibiana Guevara-Hunter, p.25.
Fabulous Frocks 2, Jane Malthus, p.27.
Eco Colour: Botanical Dyes for Beautiful Textiles, Cyndy Mckenzie, p.29.
Dressing up in the Capital WOW 2008, Elaine Webster, p.30.
Back pages, p32.
Issue 16, July – October 2008
Jane Malthus, President’s Annual Report 2007, p. 3.
Call for Papers, 8th Annual Symposium of the New Zealand Costume and Textile Section of the Auckland Museum Institute: “Empire” 30-31 May 2009, Napier, p. 4
Deb Cumming, Exhibition Review: The Material Mansfield Exhibition, pp. 5-6.
Moira White, Exhibition Review: Zeitgeist Becomes Form, pp. 7-8.
Nicola Jackson, Exhibition Notice: Full Drop, p. 9.
Paula Haines-Bellamy, “Unpicking the Past: Revealing Our Dress Collection”, pp. 10-13.
Margery Blackman, “Jacket and Skirt from Southern Sumatra”, pp. 14-15.
New Members, p. 16.
Notices and Events, pp. 16-19.
Issue 15, March – June 2008
Addressing the Margins: The New Zealand Costume and Textile Section of the Auckland Museum Institute, Seventh Annual Symposium 28-30 March 2008, Otago Museum, Dunedin, p. 3.
Moira White, Exhibition Review: Freestyle: Swimwear History, pp. 4-5.
Exhibition Review: Black in Fashion: Mourning to Night, pp. 6-7.
Natalie Smith, Book Review: Jo Bailey and Annah Stretton, From Rag Trade to Mag Trade: The Business of Annah Stretton, pp. 8-9.
Jane Malthus, Exhibition Review: Lightweight?, pp. 10-11.
Shu Hwa Lin, “Chinese Court Dress Design Principles”, pp. 12-15.
Vivien Caughley, “Small Treasure: Celia Brown’s Sampler”, pp. 16-23.
Deb Cumming, “Migration and Adaptation: Connecting Cultures Through Cloth: Global Translation in Fashion Design Study”, pp. 24-29.
New members, p. 29.
Moira White, Exhibition Review: Taoka Pueru, pp. 30-31.
Sandra Heffernan, Research Notes: “Make-Do and Mend” Textiles, p. 32.
Tour Notice: A Textile Tour of Rajasthan and Gujarat with Valerie Carson, p. 32.
Notices and Events, pp. 33-35.
Issue 14, November 2007 - March 2008
Anne Packer, "Old Traditions, New Art – Refabricating Experience", pp. 3-8.
John Webster, "Mrs Lush's Bedspread", pp. 9-12.
Shu Hwa Lin, "Beyond Luxury: Looking for Shiang-Yun-Sa", pp. 13-16.
Jan Wilson, "A Highlander Down Under", pp. 17-24.
Marissa Cassin, "Wardrobe of Kinship and Ideology: Italian First Holy Community Dresses in
Faye Margarita Davies and Claudia Orellana, "Threads from a Past Life", pp. 30-34.
Steven Ball, "The Ballgown in Contemporary NZ/Maori and Pacific Art (A Socially Dead Garment?)", pp, 35-36.
Moira White, Exhibition Review: Seasons of Indigo, pp. 37-38.
Natalie Smith, Exhibition Review: Hello Dolly! , pp. 39-40.
Information on the Seventh Annual Symposium of the
Notices and Events, pp. 42-43.
Issue 13, July - October 2007
John Kite, President's Report, p. 3.
Laura Jocic, Report on the 6th Annual Symposium's Tour of the Conservation Laboratory at the
Yanny Split, Review of the 6th Annual Symposium, p. 6.
Karen Stevenson, "Tradition and Innovation: A Continuum of Cultural Knowledge", pp. 7-15.
Mary M. Brooks and Dinah Eastop, "Integration, Curation and Conservation: Recent Developments at the Textile Conservation
Sandy Heffernan, "Cultural Exchange in Textile Design", pp. 18-22.
Shu Hwa Lin, "Expressions of Political Rank Textiles: Historic Chinese Dragon Robes", pp. 23-27.
Margery Blackman, "An Early Maori Cloak Fragment in the
Arti Sandhu, "Re-Constructing Identity: Dilemmas of Indian Diasporic Dress", pp. 32-38.
Natalie Smith, "Saying 'I Do' in White, Red, Gold and Green: A New Zealand-Ethiopian Wedding Story", pp. 39-41.
Linda Wigley, "Threads of Identity: Textiles from
New Members, p. 50.
Jennifer Matheson, Review of Xinru Liu, The Silk Road: Overland Trade and Cultural Interactions in
Moira White, Exhibition Review: Stitched in Time, pp. 51-52.
Moira White, Exhibition Review: Carrying Fashion, pp. 53-54.
Davina Davis, Exhibition Notice: All Wrapped Up, pp. 55-56.
Call for Papers, Arial'>Addressing the Margins, 7th Annual Symposium of the New Zealand Costume and Textile Section of the Auckland Museum Institute, p. 57.
2007-2009 Committee, p. 57.
Notices and Events, pp. 58-59.
Issue 12, March - June 2007
Review of Events at the National Gallery of Victoria, Thomas Harrison, Milliner 29 September 2006 - 29 April 2007; Ikat: Asian Resist-Dyed Textiles, 5 October 2006 - 12 March 2007; SNEAKER: Classics to Customs, 16 December 2006 - 8 July 2007, pp. 3-8.
Kim Smith, Book Review: Ann Packer, Stitch: Contemporary
New Members, p. 9.
Laura Jocic, "The Australian Fashion and Textile Collection at the National Gallery of
Migration and Adaptation symposium programme, pp. 12-30.
Notices and Events, pp. 31-34.
Issue 11, November 2006 - March 2007
Angela Lassig, "All that Glisters...Jane, Lady Cory's Jewellery Collection at the
Judy Turner, "Asian Textiles in the Te Papa Collection", pp. 9-13.
New Members, p.14
Elaine Webster, "Cloth Club: Dunedin Textile Group", p.14.
Bonnie Kennedy-Grant, "
Jane Sanders and Dilana Rugs, "New Rugs by Paul Cullen at
Gabriella Trusardi, "All Buttoned Up", pp.18-21.
Odette Callanan, Exhibition Review: Surface Disturbance, pp. 22-24.
6th Annual Symposium Registration form, p. 25.
2007 Symposium Preliminary Programme, pp. 26-28.
Print Archives, p. 29.
Creative
Notices and Events, pp. 32-34.
Issue 10, July - October 2006
Presidential Report, p. 3.
Kirstie Ross, Fifth Annual Symposium Review, pp. 4-5.
2006 Committee, Sub-Committee and New Members, p. 6.
Moira White, "Southern Women, Southern Quilts", p. 7.
Lynda Cullen, "Crafty Paintings: Hybrid Heroes and Other Relevant Issues", pp. 8-20.
Elly van de Wijdeven, "Riccarton Scenic Rugs", pp.11-16.
Milford Galleries,
Peter Shand, "National and Corporate Identity: The Air New Zealand Collection by Zambesi", pp.19-23.
6th Annual Symposium Call for Papers, p. 24.
Print Archives, p. 25.
Aotearoa Textiles Forum, October 2006, pp. 26-28.
Notices and Events, pp. 29-34.
Issue 9, March - June 2006
Kirstie Ross, "Fashion Sense or Sensible Dress and Lady Trampers in the 1920s and 1930s", pp. 3-7.
Fifth Annual Symposium Programme, pp. 8-11.
Laura Jocic, Book Review: Alison Goodrum, The National Fabric: Fashion, Britishness and Globalization (Berg 2005), pp.12-13.
Lynn Taylor, "Art Exchange Report: Wrap, Pleat, Fold, Bind, Tie", pp.14-17.
Print Archives, p.18.
Moira White, Collection Review: "A Taste for Lace", p.19.
Tracey Wedge, Conference Review: NATCC 2005: Recovering the Past: The Conservation of Archaeological and Ethnographic Textiles, pp. 20-23.
New Members and Website Launch, p. 24.
Notices and Events, pp. 25-27.
Issue 8, November 2005 - March 2006
Ann Calhoun, "Nature's Forms and Patterns: Design Instruction Considered", pp. 3-5.
Rachel Ovens, "
Rekha Rana Shailaj, "Deciphering a Piece of Embroidery from the Northwest Region of
Deb Cumming, "Dressed for Tennis: Social Display and Competitive Compromises", pp. 18-24.
Tatyanna Mehari, "Veneers and the Textile Industry", pp. 25-28.
Samita Bhattacharjee and Brenda Railey, "POLY'NASIA", pp. 29-32.
Davina Davis, "
Elaine Webster, "S/He Shouldn't Wear That: Dress, Sin and Morality", pp.38-42.
Vivien Caughley, "Hand-Stitched Legacy: Two Colonial Samplers from
Moira White, "Kimono: A Japanese Story", p. 49.
Rosanne Livingston, "Military Mementos?: Three Pairs of Moccasins in the Te Papa Collections", pp. 50-53.
Print Archives, pp. 54-55.
New Members, p. 56.
Notices and Events, pp. 56-57.
Fifth Annual Symposium Registration Form, pp. 58-59.
Issue 7, July - October 2005
Jane Malthus and Catherine Smith, "Symposium Review", pp. 3-4.
Rosanne Livingston, "'Being There is Everything': The Hallstatt Textiles in Context", pp. 5-7.
2005 Committee and New Members, p.8.
John Webster, Exhibition Preview: Hankies Ahoy! , p. 9.
Print Archives, pp.10-11.
Jennifer Matheson, Exhibition Review: Contained Within, pp.12-13.
Laura Jocic, "Khiva Carpet Development Project", pp.14-15.
Call for Papers and Fifth Annual Symposium, p.16.
Notices and Events, pp.16-19.
Issue 6, March - June 2005
Erin Titmus, Review: Textile Collections Care Workshop, p. 3.
New Fibre, p. 4.
Grant Banbury, Review: Being Air, p. 5.
Leafa Wilson, "WRAPPED: The Journey of Korean Thread from the Choson (Josun) Dynasty", pp. 6-7.
Gaynor Duff and Tracey Wedge,"Saving a Nation's Textile Heritage: Conservation of Costume and Textiles in
Fiona Ciaran, Exhibition Preview: Brian Molyneux: Fashion as Art, p.11.
Gaynor Duff, "A Man and his Teddy Bear: Treatment Summary", p. 12.
New Members, p.13.
Notices and Events, pp.13-17.
Fourth Annual Symposium, pp.18-19.
Issue 5, November 2004 - March 2005
Ron Brownson, "The Wonderful Eye of Jocelyn Tidswell", pp. 3-9.
Linda Tyler, "Fanny's Frocks: Exploring Frances Hodgkins' Fashion Sense", pp. 10-15.
Deborah Crowe, "Textiles in Context: Investigating the Location of Textiles in Contemporary Visual Arts", pp.16-21.
Laura Jocic, "A Fine Art: The Analysis of Dress in a 17th Century Portrait", pp. 22-25.
Anne Walsh, "Wearable Art as a Site of Cultural Representation", pp. 26-31.
John Webster, "Needlework Extravaganza", p. 32.
Trash to Fashion Awards, p.33.
New Members, p.33.
Samita Bhattacharjee & Brenda Railey,"POLY'NASIA", pp. 34-35.
Southern Threads: Connecting Dress, Cloth and Culture, p. 36.
Notices and Events, pp. 37-39.